Vegan vs. Leather: Carbon Impact
The honest comparison: traditional leather, vegan PU plastic, and bio-based alternatives for Adidas sneakers.
Carbon Footprint by Material
| Material | kg CO₂ per sq meter | Durability (years) | Lifetime Impact |
|---|---|---|---|
| Traditional Leather (LWG certified) | 17.2 | 5-7 years | 2.5-3.4 kg/year |
| PU Vegan Leather (polyurethane) | 15.8 | 2-3 years | 5.3-7.9 kg/year |
| PVC Vegan Leather | 21.4 | 1-2 years | 10.7-21.4 kg/year |
| Mylo (mycelium mushroom leather) | 8.3 | 3-4 years (estimated) | 2.1-2.8 kg/year |
| Piñatex (pineapple leaf fiber) | 6.1 | 2-3 years | 2.0-3.1 kg/year |
Source: Higg Materials Sustainability Index 2024. Lifetime impact = Production CO₂ divided by expected lifespan.
The Nuanced Truth
Traditional Leather Is NOT Always Worse
Despite common belief, leather from responsible tanneries (LWG Gold rated) can have lower lifetime carbon impact than vegan PU plastic when durability is factored in. A pair of leather Stan Smiths you wear for 6 years has half the annual CO₂ footprint of vegan Stan Smiths replaced every 2 years.
The key is sourcing: LWG-certified leather uses chrome-free tanning, water recycling, and renewable energy. Adidas sources 95% of leather from LWG-certified tanneries in 2025.
Most "Vegan Leather" Is Petroleum Plastic
Polyurethane (PU) and PVC vegan leathers are fossil fuel-based plastics. They require crude oil extraction, refining, and chemical processing. They don't biodegrade (300-500 years in landfill) and shed microplastics over time. "Vegan" doesn't automatically mean "eco-friendly."
PU is better than PVC (which releases dioxins), but neither is sustainable long-term. The Stan Smith Vegan uses PU, not bio-based materials.
Bio-Based Alternatives Are the Future (But Not Mainstream)
Mylo (mycelium/mushroom leather) and Piñatex (pineapple leaf fiber) are genuinely sustainable: plant-based, biodegradable, and lower carbon footprint than leather or PU plastic. Adidas has tested Mylo in limited Stan Smith releases (2021-2023) but hasn't scaled production.
Challenges: Mylo costs 3-4x more than leather, Piñatex has limited water resistance. Both need 5+ years to achieve cost parity and performance parity with traditional materials.
Durability Matters More Than Initial Footprint
A shoe you wear for 7 years has 1/7 the annual environmental impact of a shoe you replace yearly, even if the initial production CO₂ is higher. Leather's durability advantage (5-7 years vs. 2-3 years for PU) often outweighs its higher production emissions.
This is why classic leather Sambas and Superstars (worn for decades) can be more sustainable than trend-driven vegan releases replaced every season.
Material-Specific Breakdown
Traditional Leather (LWG Certified)
Pros
- • 5-7 year lifespan with proper care
- • Biodegradable (3-5 years in soil)
- • Can be resoled/repaired
- • Byproduct of meat industry (waste reduction)
- • Best patina and aging characteristics
Cons
- • Water-intensive tanning (30-40L per sq meter)
- • Chrome tanning creates toxic waste (LWG minimizes)
- • Linked to cattle farming (methane emissions)
- • Higher upfront CO₂ vs vegan alternatives
Best for: Buyers who wear shoes 5+ years, prioritize durability, and can afford initial premium. Look for LWG Gold certification.
PU Vegan Leather (Polyurethane)
Pros
- • No animal products (ethical choice)
- • Lighter weight than leather
- • More consistent quality (no hide variations)
- • Lower upfront CO₂ than leather
Cons
- • 2-3 year lifespan (cracks, peels)
- • Petroleum-based (fossil fuels)
- • 300-500 year decomposition
- • Sheds microplastics when worn
- • Can't be repaired once damaged
Best for: Ethical vegans who prioritize animal welfare over carbon footprint. Replace every 2-3 years.
Mylo (Mycelium Mushroom Leather)
Pros
- • Lowest production CO₂ (8.3 kg per sq meter)
- • Biodegradable (90 days in compost)
- • Plant-based and renewable
- • Grows in 2 weeks vs. months/years for animals
- • No pesticides or land use change
Cons
- • 3-4x cost of leather (2025 pricing)
- • Limited durability data (new material)
- • Not widely available (limited production)
- • Water resistance lower than leather
Best for: Early adopters willing to pay premium for genuinely sustainable material. Limited Adidas releases only.
Piñatex (Pineapple Leaf Fiber)
Pros
- • Uses agricultural waste (pineapple leaves)
- • Very low CO₂ (6.1 kg per sq meter)
- • Biodegradable
- • Supports Filipino farmers (byproduct income)
Cons
- • 2-3 year lifespan (similar to PU)
- • Limited water resistance
- • Texture less refined than leather
- • Not widely adopted by Adidas
Best for: Buyers prioritizing waste reduction and circular economy. Not yet available in mainstream Adidas products.
What Should You Buy?
If you prioritize lowest lifetime carbon footprint:
Buy LWG-certified leather (Stan Smith, Samba, Superstar) and wear for 5+ years. Lifetime CO₂ per year beats vegan PU. Care properly, resole when needed.
If you're ethically opposed to animal products:
Choose Mylo or Piñatex if available (limited releases). If not, PU vegan leather (Stan Smith Vegan, Superstar Vegan) is acceptable but replace less frequently to minimize waste. Avoid PVC.
If you want the most sustainable option overall:
Wait for Mylo or Piñatex to become mainstream. In 2025, these are the only genuinely sustainable alternatives that combine low CO₂, biodegradability, and ethical sourcing. Adidas needs to scale production.
If you're on a budget:
Buy used leather Adidas (Grailed, eBay, Depop). Zero new production CO₂, massive savings, and you're extending product life. A worn pair of Sambas for $40 is more sustainable than new vegan for $90.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is vegan leather always more sustainable than real leather?
No. PU and PVC vegan leathers are petroleum-based plastics with shorter lifespans. When lifetime CO₂ is calculated (production divided by years worn), LWG-certified leather often has lower annual impact. Mylo and Piñatex are exceptions - genuinely more sustainable but not widely available.
How long do vegan Adidas shoes last vs. leather?
Vegan PU lasts 2-3 years with normal wear before cracking and peeling. Leather lasts 5-7 years with proper care. This 2-3x durability difference means leather can have lower lifetime environmental impact despite higher production CO₂.
Can vegan leather be composted or recycled?
No. PU and PVC are plastics that take 300-500 years to decompose in landfills and can't be recycled with standard programs. Mylo and Piñatex are biodegradable (90 days to 1 year in compost) but these are rare in Adidas products as of 2025.
Does Adidas use ethical leather sources?
95% of Adidas leather is LWG (Leather Working Group) certified, meaning chrome-free tanning, water recycling, and renewable energy. This is better than conventional leather but still has environmental impact from cattle farming. Check for LWG Gold rating.
What's the carbon footprint of one pair of leather Sambas?
Approximately 11-13 kg CO₂ for production (17.2 kg per sq meter × 0.65 sq meters for one pair). Over 6 years, that's ~2 kg CO₂ per year. Vegan Sambas: 10 kg production CO₂, but replaced every 2.5 years = 4 kg per year.
Are Stan Smith Vegan shoes made from plants?
No. Stan Smith Vegan uses Primegreen polyurethane (PU) - petroleum-based plastic. The 'vegan' label means no animal products, not plant-based. True plant-based Adidas shoes (Mylo mycelium) are limited release only.
Should I avoid leather if I care about the environment?
Not necessarily. LWG-certified leather worn for 6+ years can have lower lifetime CO₂ than vegan PU replaced every 2 years. If you're ethically opposed to animal products, wait for Mylo/Piñatex to become mainstream or buy vegan and maximize lifespan.
How can I make vegan shoes last longer?
Clean with mild soap (not harsh chemicals), avoid soaking in water, store in cool/dry place, use shoe trees, rotate pairs to prevent constant stress, and apply leather conditioner (works on PU) monthly. Still won't match leather durability but extends life 30-40%.
What's the most sustainable shoe material Adidas makes?
Mylo (mycelium) has lowest production CO₂ (8.3 kg per sq meter) and is biodegradable. But it's limited release. For mainstream products, LWG-certified leather worn 6+ years has best lifetime footprint. Avoid PVC entirely - highest impact material.
Is buying used leather better than buying new vegan?
Yes, from a pure CO₂ perspective. Used leather has zero new production emissions, you're extending product life, and preventing landfill waste. A $40 used pair of leather Sambas is objectively more sustainable than $90 new vegan Sambas. Ethics are personal choice.